Whether you choose Capri for a day or the whole summer, it will captivate you. Besides the spots of exorbitant prices attracting loads of tourists, there are other sights of splendid villas, precious striking coloured bouganvilles adorning gardens and the breathtaking blue shades of waters that charm its visitors. Ordinary people and celebs choose this island which comprises all the beauty of the sea, its beach-less coasts and vestiges of the culture imposed by Rome. It is known that the island was peopled in the prehistoric times, then the Greeks took it and later on it fell to the Romans. Its potential as a holiday resort was discovered when at the beginning of the 1900s artists and Russian supporters of revolutionary ideology came to it.
As you arrive you can take the funicular, a bus or taxi to go to Capri town. You may also get at it along Via Marina Grande, a 2.25-km-ascent. When you reach Via Roma, to the east you head for Capri town.
Capri is a beautiful combination of narrow traffic-less streets, white stone constructions, lush hotels, exquisite designer shops, bars and restaurants. Its little streets overflow with wealthy holidaymakers or people eager to capture photos of how the other half live.
The meeting point in Capri is its tiny speck of a town Piazza Umberto I or Piazzetta, the place to enjoy the passeggiata, to observe and be observed. The Piazzetta is watched over by the clock tower and the Chiesa di Santo Stefano, an archetype of 17th century baroque. Its flooring, formerly Villa Jovis’s floor, is marbled. The reliquary by the northern chapel houses a bone that is said to have kept Capri away of the 1800s plague.
The Museo del Centro Caprense I Cerio on Piazzetta Cerio houses a collection of books and journals dealing with Capri and fossils unearthed on it which date back to the Neolithic and Palaeolithic period.
From the piazzetta take Via Vittorio Emanuele and then Via F Serena to delve into the Certosa di San Giacomo (Viale Certosa) built in the second half of the 1300s following the typical caprese architecture. It was shut down by Napoleon ‘s men. At present it has been turned into a school, library and a museum displaying some 1600s paintings. One of its cloisters was erected in the 1300 and the second, and bigger, was constructed in the 1500s . The church sports some good quality frescoes created in the 1600s. From the monastery go along Via Matteotti to another must visit: the Gardens of Augustus, who had them built. From here the three rocks emerging from the water pointing to the sky, the Isola Faraglioni, make a stunning view reaching 109m of height where a weird blue lizard has its habitat.
The island is swept across by well kept strolling paths. One of the routes begins in a natural arc created by water erosion, the Arco Naturale, goes past the Grotta Matermania, a gigantic cave to worship the water nymphs, Malaparte’s red summer resort, then head for Belvedere di Tragara where the vantage point of the Isole Faraglioni is fantastic. Via Tragara and then Via Camerelle lead you back to Capri town.
A 2-km walk from Capri town is Villa Jovis, Tiberius’ most important abode on Capri and the most spacious and luxurious of his time. A network of channels was constructed to bring rain water to its storage and provide the baths and 3000 sq-m gardens with it. Tiberius’ rooms gave onto the splendid Punta della Campanella. A view of Tiberius’ leap, from where, it is said, he got rid of those he did not like anymore, is glimpsed behind the villa.
In Capri town the most important religious celebration is Festa di San Costanzo celebrated on 14th May. On 1st and 6th January its inhabitants celebrate a new beginning on the Piazzetta. Outside of cafes there are only few discos and top-quality taverns opening from 10 to 4 where admission is compulsory. Taverna Anema e Core (Via sella Orta) and Guarracino (Via Castello) are popular places hosting famous visitors.
An exclusive choice is Musmè a trendy discothèque(Via Camerelle) or you can head for Baraonda which overflows with younger dancers adoring hiphop, revival and house.
The two shopping thoroughfares Via Vittorio Emanuele and Via Camarelle are lined with all conceivable designer shops. Other shops supply ceramic works and limoncello and perfumes of lemon scents, one of them following the same formula discovered seven centuries ago.
Where to Eat
Prices reduce inland. All traditional food is dished out in trattories especially the local speciality, caprese salad, that Capri has given the Italian cuisine.
La Capannina on Via Le Botteghe is caprese typical trattoria. You will certainly find a celeb here. its menu lists all local specialities, delectable pasta, grilled meat and fresh fish.
La Cisterna on Via M Serafina is a busy eatery located in a Roman cistern which is about 20 centuries old. It attracts visitors with its typical dishes among which the recommendable are pasta with beans and pizza. Servings are very generous.
La Pergola on Via Traversa Lo Palazzo is magnificently located giving onto precious views with food served under the vines climbing its terrace. The menu has a selection of typical and creative dishes.
Raffaele Buonacore is located on Via Vittorio Emanuele prepares lip licking pastries, waffles and sfogliatelle. This snack bar is doing very well at its take away selling pizza frittatas and bread rolls.
Check out Verginiello on Via Lo Palazzo to eat well and at affordable prices. Its food is good and the views of Marina Grande is magnificent. Try its pasta and grilled steaks.
How to Get to/around/away
BY BUS: there are buses running from Via Roma to/from Marina Grande, Anacapri and Marina Piccola, or from Marina Grande to Anacapri and from Marina Piccola to Anacapri. A bus leaves from the bus station in Anacapri to visit the Grotta Azzurra and Faro di Punta Carena. Tickets are valid for the day.
BY CAR: Just few roads are available for cars and there is no car rental service. Cars are only accepted if registered abroad or hired at an international airport.
BY FERRY OR HIDROFOILS: boats link Capri-Sorrento and Naples. Other route is from Ischia, Amalfi, Positano and Salerno. Timetables change according to season. In the summer from Naples (length:70-50mintes, services: 5 a day). Another Navigazione Libera del Golfo provides 25 services daily. To/from Sorrento (length: 25 minutes, services: one company offers 4, the other offers 25), to /from Positano (services: 6 a day), to Amalfi (services: 7 a day), to Salerno (services: 5 a day).
BY FUNICULAR: the best way to go to Capri town from Marina Grande. Take them on the west of the port or at the funicular station.
BY HELICOPTER: they depart from Capodichino Airport in Naples.
BY SCOOTER: a great way to discover Capri. You can hire a scooter from Rent a Scooter Marina Grande, in Anacapri or Marina Grande.
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